Course 14 · Shedding and Undercoat · Lesson 4 of 12

How do you deshed a double coat in sections?

Published 29 October 2026 · Updated 29 October 2026 · About 6 minutes · General information only. This lesson does not diagnose or treat any condition.

Deshed a double coat in sections by parting the coat into small areas, working each section from the ends toward the skin with a comb and undercoat rake, removing loose undercoat, checking skin, and moving on only when the section is clear. Sectioning prevents loose undercoat being missed under the top coat, reduces pulling, and lets the owner check skin systematically. A whole coat deshed in one rushed pass will miss undercoat, break guard hairs, and tire the dog, while sectioned work is thorough, gentle and sustainable.

Why does sectioning matter for double coats?

Double coats have two layers: long guard hairs on top, and dense, soft undercoat underneath. Loose undercoat hides beneath guard hairs, so brushing over the top removes only surface hair and leaves the undercoat to pack, mat and trap heat. Sectioning lifts the top coat, exposes the undercoat, and allows tools to reach it without force. It also protects skin, because working a small section at a time, with the base held, pulls less than working a large area. Sectioning helps the owner keep track of what has been done, especially on large dogs, where a full deshed can take an hour and is easily left half finished. It also allows breaks: one section, pause, reward, next section, so the dog does not become tired or sore. In blowing coat, when undercoat is released in large amounts, sectioning is the only way to remove it thoroughly without overwhelming the dog or the owner. The coat should be dry, clean, and free of mats before deshedding, because deshedding tools should not be dragged through mats.

How do you work a section step by step?

Work in good light, on a non slip surface, outdoors or on a sheet if possible, because loose hair will fall. Use a wide toothed comb and an undercoat rake, and have treats ready. Part the coat with the comb to expose a section about the width of the comb, starting at the lower body and working upward, or starting at the neck and working toward the tail, in a consistent order. Hold the base of the section gently, comb from the ends toward the skin, then use the rake in the direction of hair growth, with light pressure, to lift loose undercoat. Comb again to check that the section is clear and that guard hairs remain intact. Check the skin in that section for redness, soreness, flaking, or lumps, then move to the next section, overlapping slightly so no area is missed. Work the body first, then legs, chest, and tail area, leaving sensitive areas, such as armpits and groin, for last, with extra gentleness.

1. Prepare comb, rake, sheet, treats, good light, dry coat.
2. Part coat into a small section, exposing undercoat.
3. Hold base gently, comb from ends toward skin.
4. Use rake in hair growth direction, light pressure, lift loose undercoat.
5. Comb again, check skin, confirm section is clear.
6. Move to next section, overlapping slightly, pause and reward regularly.

How much hair should come out, and how do you know when to stop a section?

During blowing coat, a section may release a large amount of soft, pale undercoat, and that is expected. A section is finished when the comb passes freely to skin, loose undercoat no longer comes out in clumps, and guard hairs lie smoothly. Stop working a section if the comb catches repeatedly, if skin becomes red, if the dog shows discomfort, or if hair coming out is coarse guard hair rather than soft undercoat. Guard hair loss signals that the tool or pressure is wrong, and work should pause and technique be reassessed. Do not continue until the coat looks thin or bare: a double coat should remain full after deshedding, with guard hairs intact and undercoat reduced but not stripped. If the coat looks patchy, thin, or frizzy, stop and seek groomer advice. Keep removed hair in a pile or bag, so the volume can be judged and the area kept clean. A deshed that removes a shopping bag full of undercoat over a few sessions during blowing coat can be normal for a large double coated dog, but a deshed that removes guard hair or leaves bald patches is not.

How do you handle difficult sections and sensitive areas?

Difficult sections, such as the ruff around the neck, the breeches on the back legs, and the chest, have dense undercoat and need smaller sections and more patience. Work them slowly, with the comb first, then the rake, and check skin often. Sensitive areas, such as armpits, groin, behind ears, and belly, have thin skin and should be deshedded only with a comb, gently, without a rake or deshedding tool, and only if the dog tolerates it. If a section is matted, stop deshedding there and use the matting course decision process, because deshedding tools will pull mats and injure skin. If a section is sore, red, or the dog flinches, skip it, note it, and seek veterinary advice if soreness persists. Do not deshed a wet coat, a dirty coat, or a coat with shampoo residue, because tools will drag and break hair. If the dog becomes tired, panting, or stressed, finish the session and resume another day. A sectioned deshed that takes several days is a success, not a failure, because it is thorough and kind.

When should you stop and get help?

Stop deshedding and contact a groomer or vet if skin is red, sore, scratched, bleeding, or broken, if the dog shows pain, if coat becomes patchy or bald, if mats are found that cannot be dealt with safely, or if the owner is unsure about technique or tools. A groomer can demonstrate sectioning in person, advise on tools for that coat, and complete a heavy deshed safely, including with a high velocity dryer where appropriate, under professional supervision. Do not use clippers, thinning shears, or blades to remove undercoat, and do not deshed a dog with a skin problem without veterinary advice. Sectioned, gentle deshedding, with skin checks and early stopping, keeps a double coat healthy through shedding season without damaging the guard hairs that protect it.

Small sections, comb first, rake lightly, skin checked, and guard hairs intact are the marks of a good deshed, and a section that resists or hurts is a section to leave and refer.

← Back to Shedding and Undercoat