Course 06 · Clippers: An Introduction · Lesson 6 of 12
How do you clip a back and sides in an introductory pattern?
An introductory back and sides pattern uses slow, overlapping passes in one length, leaving shaping to hands-on teaching.
An introductory pattern for the back and sides keeps one length over the main body, using slow, overlapping passes that follow the lie of the coat from the neck towards the tail and down the ribs. It does not attempt a shaped outline, a sculpted neck, a patterned saddle or a blended skirt. The back and sides are the flattest, most forgiving areas, which makes them the right place to learn control, but they still need preparation, a flat blade, regular heat checks and a willingness to stop and leave the rest to a groomer if the finish or the dog response is not right.
Where does the pattern start and end?
Start at the back of the neck or the top of the shoulders, where the coat is flat and the dog is used to being touched. Work backwards along the spine towards the tail in overlapping strips, then work down each side from the topline towards the belly, stopping well above the belly and the legs. Leave the head, ears, throat, legs, feet, belly and tail for other lessons or for a groomer, because those areas involve curves, thin skin and shaping that need separate care. A clear boundary for a first pattern protects the dog and keeps the result tidy: a neat back and sides with untouched legs looks better than a whole dog clipped unevenly in one ambitious session.
How do you lay down the first passes?
Brush the back in the direction of growth, confirm the blade and guard, and make the first pass slowly from the shoulders towards the rump, keeping the blade flat and your pressure light. Lift at the end of the pass, brush away cut hair, and look at the result before you continue. The second pass should overlap the first by about a third, following the same direction. Continue in strips until you reach the tail base, then repeat on the other side of the spine, checking that both sides match. Work in short sections, especially if the dog moves, and do not chase a moving dog with the clipper. If the dog shifts, stop, settle the dog, and restart the pass from a clear point rather than clipping a half pass across a moving surface.
How do you clip the sides and ribs?
The ribs curve, so follow the curve with your arm rather than tilting the blade. Start at the top of the ribcage and move downwards in the direction the hair lies, which is usually down and slightly back. Use your free hand to smooth the skin gently ahead of the blade on flat rib areas, keeping fingers well clear of the blade path. Near the elbow and the flank, the skin moves and folds more, so slow down, shorten the passes and keep the blade flat. Do not clip into the armpit, the groin or the fold behind the front leg at home in a first pattern. Those areas have thin, loose skin that can be caught easily, and they belong in a later lesson with hands-on guidance, or with a groomer.
What does an even introductory finish look like?
An even finish looks uniform in length from a normal distance, with no obvious strips, steps or bare patches, and with the coat lying naturally once the dog has shaken. It does not need to look sculpted. Check by standing back, looking along the topline from behind, and comparing the left and right sides in a mirror or by walking around the dog. Brush the coat, let it settle, and check again, because freshly clipped coat can look patchy until loose hair is brushed out and the coat relaxes. If one strip looks shorter, do not immediately clip the rest shorter to match it in the same session. Note the cause, which is often a tilted blade, a faster pass or a clogged guard, and correct the technique on the next section or in a later session.
What practical sequence keeps the pattern orderly?
Use this sequence for a first back and sides session, with a heat and comfort check built in:
- Brush, check skin, fit blade and guard, and introduce sound gradually.
- Clip the topline from shoulders to tail base in overlapping strips.
- Clip the upper ribs on one side, then the other, comparing as you go.
- Brush out, check blade heat, and give the dog a break.
- Finish the lower sides, stopping well clear of belly, legs and folds.
- Brush out again, check the finish from a distance, and stop while the result is tidy.
If any step is interrupted by stress, heat or a poor finish, the sequence gives you a natural stopping point. A half finished back that is even is better than a full body clip that is uneven and stressful.
Stop and get help: when should you leave the pattern unfinished?
Leave the pattern unfinished and seek help if the blade keeps leaving lines, the coat is too thick or tangled for the clipper, the skin reddens, a nick occurs, or the dog becomes distressed. Do not shorten the whole coat to hide a mistake, and do not move on to the head, legs or tail to distract from a poor back. A groomer can correct the finish, show you where the technique went wrong, and advise whether the coat suits clipping at all. Professional breed cuts are not taught by text, and an introductory pattern is a starting point for supervised learning, not a substitute for it. End the session calmly, reward settling, and record the blade, guard and result for next time.
Further reading
- American Kennel Club: grooming guidance
- Pet grooming equipment guidance: manufacturer instructions